2015 Motoweek Write-up
For this year's trip, I am starting the write up before leaving...as there was a lot of prep, and I felt like taking notes.
After doing a long circuit around the outside of Switzerland last year, I felt the urge to return to the Tyrols region and spend a little more time riding there. Also, after a 2500 km circuit in 7 days or so, I decided this year to change the approach slightly. Rather than move to another hotel each nite, I will ride to a central location, and then do a day tour circuit each day, returning to the same hotel.
I say hotel, but in fact they are all B&B's, either found through Google maps search, or Air B&B.
Maps prepared using gpsies.com and google maps.
Inspiration taken from this brochure for motorcycle touring in Austria (Hochalpinestrasse Grossglockner). I studied the maps and made my own routes based off them...but there are downloadable .kml files here.
Supplies for this trip include that I did not think to take last time include:
New Bike Mods for this year:
Supplies I had last time and will take again:
Photo Album
Day 1 - Nyon to Sedrun
Autoroute to the east side of Lac Leman, and over the Jaunpass to Interlaken...then through Meiringen and over the Susten Pass into Andermatt. From there over the Oberalpass to Sedrun.
Guest house was the Hausbadus, where somehow they had not confirmed my room...(maybe email issues, as I had booked with them rather than through airbnb). The owner gave me 10% off and I stayed in an unfinished room on the second floor...as I was there for only a few hours, and really to sleep, I can't complain...
Had a relaxing 1h swim in the Sedrun Baths...heated swimming pool, with waterfall and jets that offered a nice massage...
Dinner was Chicken cordon bleu at the Hotel Krüzli.
Day 2 - Sedrun to Nauders
Lazy start on day 2, after breakfast in the café below the guest house where they have fresh bread and other delicious treats, as today's leg was a short ride to the Austrian border.
Over Albula pass, and down into La Punt Chamues ch. A trip up to Nauders, AT, where I found the Guesthouse Brigitte, with a beautiful garden, at the top of the town. I was able to communicate with the grandmother who runs the house despite her speaking only German. Turned down her offer for the wifi password for 3 EUR, lol ('normally 5 EUR, but since I was staying one night, she gave me a deal :P)...for 37 EUR/ night, I would think they can include wifi...so I refused on principle, and after a short hunt purchased a Yess!!! SIM card at the MPREIS for 1.99 EUR with 100MB, 100 mins, and 100 sms included.
Took a short ride to Reschensee over the border to Italy, through Reschenpass.
Dinner was ChampignonSchnitzel at the Stadlwirt Restaurant across the street...I did not dare order 'Austria's biggest Schnitzerl' which showed photos of a veritable trough of schnitzel for each person!
Day 3 - Nauders to Walchen
This was a long ride, and so got an early start.
North toward Landeck, I cut through the Nature Park on L17 through Wenns, to find the 186 south toward Timmelsjoch Pass. At a gas stop here I purchased the Austrian 10 day motorcycle autoroute vignette for 5 EUR. Stopped in Solden and rode up to the Otzal Glacier...then on towards Timmelsjoch, San Leonardo pass and Jaufenpass. Decided to take the Brenner autoroute at this point, toward Innsbruck and Kirchbichl...to finally come over the Thurn pass and into the valley at Mittersil. From there it was just 20km or so to Walchen.
Easily found the AirBnB in the small village, and was greeted warmly by the family there. A nice clean private room with bathroom, wifi, laundry...quite a steal!
Wandered out to find Burger Baron which turned out to be a few Km down the road in Piesendorf, where I had a descent burger, and headed back to the bnb for a rest.
Day 4 - Grossglockner Tour
This was the first day of touring from the above mentioned brochure...I decided to complete only the 'part a' and leave the 'part b' for another time. This gave me a 6-7 hour ride over the Grossglockner pass, with many small excursions off the tour to visit alpine lakes, and the Pasterze Glacier. Amazing ride, and cannot reccomend highly enough. I purchased the 'Tour Card' which includes one passage of Grossglockner, Gerlos, and Nockalmstrasse for 32 EUR.
Dinner was in the town of Zell am See at the Steinerwirdt 1493, where I tried the local specialty of bread dumplings, with roast pork...amazing!
A short walk along the lake, and some sunset pics, and it was time to go to bed...
Day 5 - Gerlos Tour
Ok, I may be a bit spoiled by Grossglockner, Timmelsjoch, and the Swiss passes, but this tour was slightly dissapointing. I was perhaps also a bit tired at this point and less able to appreciate the beautiful weather, and spectacular views...but I would say, skip the east side of the tour...head west toward Krimml falls, Gerlos pass, and then to Mayerhofen...and then head back...skip the north and eastern part of the tour.
I rode east to Zell am See, then north toward Lofner. From there west where there are 3 or 4 suggested detours into the hills...I did Kitzbuhlerhorn Panoramastrasse (8 EUR tax), and one other that turned into a dirt road fairly quickly (could be nice, but on the K1200s, not the greatest). This meant that on this 7+ hour tour, 6 hours or so is spent on flat wide roads with trucks, factories, gas stations, supermarkets, etc...with a nice mountain view behind all that.
When you finally get to Gerlos pass it is quite a relief...a bit of nature, alpine roads...but quite short compared to Grossglockner (I think I have been spoiled as I said :P). I tried taking the Zillertaler Hohenstrasse from Kaltenback to Zell am Ziller, but about halfway there was blocked by a logging operation that had set 20 trees in the road. I am sure it must have been posted further down the road somewhere, but I did not catch it...so had to do a u turn, and head straight to Gerlos pass.
There is a nice view of Krimml falls from the Gerlos pass, but I did not stop at the falls themselves, with so many bus fulls of tourists there...6 hours of 'dissapointing' ride done, and still a good hour to go.
Back in Walchen, Dinner was at the Waidachhoff...Cheese dumplings in garlic soup (Kasseknudel, Knobloch souppe) with mixed salad. Nice easy cheap local specialty that hit the spot.
Day 6 - rest day
Rain today in the area, so had a bit of a late sleep. Wrote up this blog...did some laundry...and am debating heading to the world's largest Icecaves or to relax at the Kaprun thermal baths...
In the end, I found the Hallenbad in the center of Zell am See, and thought I would go for a swim, but so did about 100 other people...so skipped that. Checked out the Kaprun pools, but it was about as crowded. Decided to just go have pizza and a beer for lunch, and relax for the day...had a light dinner, and was up early for day 7.
Day 7 - Nockalmstrasse Tour
Left a bit earlier for this tour, as it was planned 7+ hours of riding. Headed east past Zell am See in a early morning mist, to turn south toward Bockestein, and the train transport headed to Mallnitz. Arrived just in time for the 8:20 departure, and was on the south side of the pass by 8:40. From there it was a nice ride to the start of the Nockalmstrasse, which is a curvy up and down route which winds through a natural reserve (much like the Grossglockner, but slightly lower, and more in a high plateau it seems). Passed Innerkrems and headed up to Malta where there is a nice dam and lake at altitude. The ride back was a short bit of autoroute toward Lienz, and the Grossglockner road a second time, but heading north. Producing the receipt for the first passage reduces the return price to 11 EUR (otherwise 24 EUR).
This tour was overall superb, and the weather was again, clear and pleasant!
Dinner was a bit extravagant, being the last night in Austria, at the Tannenhof which is the second restaurant/hotel within walking distance of Walchen. In-house smoke trout with salad, homemade bread with Horseradish butter, and a small plate of Kasseknudel. Large Ice tea. Scoop of vanilla icecream and hot fudge...
Day 8 - Walchen to Schlanders
Said goodbye to my airbnb hosts of 4 nights, and hit the road toward Schlanders, IT, just past Merano. The route through Mittersil, and then again over the Gerlos Pass, but bypassing Krimml avoids the toll. The route is a little unsmooth, but a fun ride with a great view. I joined the autoroute toward Innsbruck for 30 mins or so, to exit Innsbruck south, and take the old Brenner road over the pass (as I had come north in this valley on the autoroute). The south end climbs the Jaufenpass, where I had a late lunch on the Gasthof Alpenblick, and through San Leonardo and Merano to arrive in Schlanders.
The Pension Feldgaertenhoff in Schlanders offers a decent price in a nice setting. Two or three restaurants in the village...at Sonne I had a Salmon steak with potatoes...
Day 9 - Schlanders to Nufenen
This was a 5 hour day that was quite amazing as 80% or more of the trip is in open high alps. From Schlanders I headed up Stelvio pass, and rather than turning into the Swiss national park, where I had come from last year, I headed down into Italy again, toward Livigno. From here, over the Livigno pass toward Chiavenna, and north over the Splugen pass to Nufenen. This day was, if not the best, most beautiful route, then a close tie for 2nd or 3rd with Grossglockner and Nockalmstrasse.
Day 10 - Nufenen to Nyon
Todays trip will take me home to Nyon. Just Forclaz and Nufenen Passes to start the day, and then I will take the autoroute down the valley to Martigny, and around the lake to Nyon. Planned to be about 7 hours ride.
After doing a long circuit around the outside of Switzerland last year, I felt the urge to return to the Tyrols region and spend a little more time riding there. Also, after a 2500 km circuit in 7 days or so, I decided this year to change the approach slightly. Rather than move to another hotel each nite, I will ride to a central location, and then do a day tour circuit each day, returning to the same hotel.
I say hotel, but in fact they are all B&B's, either found through Google maps search, or Air B&B.
Maps prepared using gpsies.com and google maps.
Inspiration taken from this brochure for motorcycle touring in Austria (Hochalpinestrasse Grossglockner). I studied the maps and made my own routes based off them...but there are downloadable .kml files here.
Supplies for this trip include that I did not think to take last time include:
- Hi Viz yellow vest - required by law in AT
- Tubeless tire puncture kit - should have one of these I figure
- Ear plugs - decided I will take steps toward preserving my hearing!
- Digital tire pressure gauge - for good measure
- Spare helmet visor (clear) - to replace tinted one in case caught out late with low light
- External Mic in wind cover for Drift
New Bike Mods for this year:
- USB port (double) - installed to bike so as to charge my phone, and camera while on the go
- Grip Puppies - to reduce vibration in hands
- Gel cushion for seat - for comfort after 5-8 hours/ day riding
Supplies I had last time and will take again:
- Aerostitch Light Riding Suit with full pads
- Alpine Stars CR4 h/biking boots
- Aerostitch Alpine Roper Elkskin gloves
- Cap
- Wool hat
- Wool Scarf
- Heavy Fleece
- Light Fleece
- Wind/Waterproof shell
- Sunglasses
- Camera Lumix FZ200
- Camera Drift HD
- Small Laptop 500Gb drive (to off-load images)
- Clothes
- Snacks
- Waterbottle
- Sunscreen
- Swiss Army Knife
Photo Album
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| Motoweek 2015 |
Day 1 - Nyon to Sedrun
Autoroute to the east side of Lac Leman, and over the Jaunpass to Interlaken...then through Meiringen and over the Susten Pass into Andermatt. From there over the Oberalpass to Sedrun.
Guest house was the Hausbadus, where somehow they had not confirmed my room...(maybe email issues, as I had booked with them rather than through airbnb). The owner gave me 10% off and I stayed in an unfinished room on the second floor...as I was there for only a few hours, and really to sleep, I can't complain...
Had a relaxing 1h swim in the Sedrun Baths...heated swimming pool, with waterfall and jets that offered a nice massage...
Dinner was Chicken cordon bleu at the Hotel Krüzli.
Day 2 - Sedrun to Nauders
Lazy start on day 2, after breakfast in the café below the guest house where they have fresh bread and other delicious treats, as today's leg was a short ride to the Austrian border.
Over Albula pass, and down into La Punt Chamues ch. A trip up to Nauders, AT, where I found the Guesthouse Brigitte, with a beautiful garden, at the top of the town. I was able to communicate with the grandmother who runs the house despite her speaking only German. Turned down her offer for the wifi password for 3 EUR, lol ('normally 5 EUR, but since I was staying one night, she gave me a deal :P)...for 37 EUR/ night, I would think they can include wifi...so I refused on principle, and after a short hunt purchased a Yess!!! SIM card at the MPREIS for 1.99 EUR with 100MB, 100 mins, and 100 sms included.
Took a short ride to Reschensee over the border to Italy, through Reschenpass.
Dinner was ChampignonSchnitzel at the Stadlwirt Restaurant across the street...I did not dare order 'Austria's biggest Schnitzerl' which showed photos of a veritable trough of schnitzel for each person!
Day 3 - Nauders to Walchen
This was a long ride, and so got an early start.
North toward Landeck, I cut through the Nature Park on L17 through Wenns, to find the 186 south toward Timmelsjoch Pass. At a gas stop here I purchased the Austrian 10 day motorcycle autoroute vignette for 5 EUR. Stopped in Solden and rode up to the Otzal Glacier...then on towards Timmelsjoch, San Leonardo pass and Jaufenpass. Decided to take the Brenner autoroute at this point, toward Innsbruck and Kirchbichl...to finally come over the Thurn pass and into the valley at Mittersil. From there it was just 20km or so to Walchen.
Easily found the AirBnB in the small village, and was greeted warmly by the family there. A nice clean private room with bathroom, wifi, laundry...quite a steal!
Wandered out to find Burger Baron which turned out to be a few Km down the road in Piesendorf, where I had a descent burger, and headed back to the bnb for a rest.
Day 4 - Grossglockner Tour
This was the first day of touring from the above mentioned brochure...I decided to complete only the 'part a' and leave the 'part b' for another time. This gave me a 6-7 hour ride over the Grossglockner pass, with many small excursions off the tour to visit alpine lakes, and the Pasterze Glacier. Amazing ride, and cannot reccomend highly enough. I purchased the 'Tour Card' which includes one passage of Grossglockner, Gerlos, and Nockalmstrasse for 32 EUR.
Dinner was in the town of Zell am See at the Steinerwirdt 1493, where I tried the local specialty of bread dumplings, with roast pork...amazing!
A short walk along the lake, and some sunset pics, and it was time to go to bed...
Day 5 - Gerlos Tour
Ok, I may be a bit spoiled by Grossglockner, Timmelsjoch, and the Swiss passes, but this tour was slightly dissapointing. I was perhaps also a bit tired at this point and less able to appreciate the beautiful weather, and spectacular views...but I would say, skip the east side of the tour...head west toward Krimml falls, Gerlos pass, and then to Mayerhofen...and then head back...skip the north and eastern part of the tour.
I rode east to Zell am See, then north toward Lofner. From there west where there are 3 or 4 suggested detours into the hills...I did Kitzbuhlerhorn Panoramastrasse (8 EUR tax), and one other that turned into a dirt road fairly quickly (could be nice, but on the K1200s, not the greatest). This meant that on this 7+ hour tour, 6 hours or so is spent on flat wide roads with trucks, factories, gas stations, supermarkets, etc...with a nice mountain view behind all that.
When you finally get to Gerlos pass it is quite a relief...a bit of nature, alpine roads...but quite short compared to Grossglockner (I think I have been spoiled as I said :P). I tried taking the Zillertaler Hohenstrasse from Kaltenback to Zell am Ziller, but about halfway there was blocked by a logging operation that had set 20 trees in the road. I am sure it must have been posted further down the road somewhere, but I did not catch it...so had to do a u turn, and head straight to Gerlos pass.
There is a nice view of Krimml falls from the Gerlos pass, but I did not stop at the falls themselves, with so many bus fulls of tourists there...6 hours of 'dissapointing' ride done, and still a good hour to go.
Back in Walchen, Dinner was at the Waidachhoff...Cheese dumplings in garlic soup (Kasseknudel, Knobloch souppe) with mixed salad. Nice easy cheap local specialty that hit the spot.
Day 6 - rest day
Rain today in the area, so had a bit of a late sleep. Wrote up this blog...did some laundry...and am debating heading to the world's largest Icecaves or to relax at the Kaprun thermal baths...
In the end, I found the Hallenbad in the center of Zell am See, and thought I would go for a swim, but so did about 100 other people...so skipped that. Checked out the Kaprun pools, but it was about as crowded. Decided to just go have pizza and a beer for lunch, and relax for the day...had a light dinner, and was up early for day 7.
Day 7 - Nockalmstrasse Tour
Left a bit earlier for this tour, as it was planned 7+ hours of riding. Headed east past Zell am See in a early morning mist, to turn south toward Bockestein, and the train transport headed to Mallnitz. Arrived just in time for the 8:20 departure, and was on the south side of the pass by 8:40. From there it was a nice ride to the start of the Nockalmstrasse, which is a curvy up and down route which winds through a natural reserve (much like the Grossglockner, but slightly lower, and more in a high plateau it seems). Passed Innerkrems and headed up to Malta where there is a nice dam and lake at altitude. The ride back was a short bit of autoroute toward Lienz, and the Grossglockner road a second time, but heading north. Producing the receipt for the first passage reduces the return price to 11 EUR (otherwise 24 EUR).
This tour was overall superb, and the weather was again, clear and pleasant!
Dinner was a bit extravagant, being the last night in Austria, at the Tannenhof which is the second restaurant/hotel within walking distance of Walchen. In-house smoke trout with salad, homemade bread with Horseradish butter, and a small plate of Kasseknudel. Large Ice tea. Scoop of vanilla icecream and hot fudge...
Day 8 - Walchen to Schlanders
Said goodbye to my airbnb hosts of 4 nights, and hit the road toward Schlanders, IT, just past Merano. The route through Mittersil, and then again over the Gerlos Pass, but bypassing Krimml avoids the toll. The route is a little unsmooth, but a fun ride with a great view. I joined the autoroute toward Innsbruck for 30 mins or so, to exit Innsbruck south, and take the old Brenner road over the pass (as I had come north in this valley on the autoroute). The south end climbs the Jaufenpass, where I had a late lunch on the Gasthof Alpenblick, and through San Leonardo and Merano to arrive in Schlanders.
The Pension Feldgaertenhoff in Schlanders offers a decent price in a nice setting. Two or three restaurants in the village...at Sonne I had a Salmon steak with potatoes...
Day 9 - Schlanders to Nufenen
This was a 5 hour day that was quite amazing as 80% or more of the trip is in open high alps. From Schlanders I headed up Stelvio pass, and rather than turning into the Swiss national park, where I had come from last year, I headed down into Italy again, toward Livigno. From here, over the Livigno pass toward Chiavenna, and north over the Splugen pass to Nufenen. This day was, if not the best, most beautiful route, then a close tie for 2nd or 3rd with Grossglockner and Nockalmstrasse.
Day 10 - Nufenen to Nyon
Todays trip will take me home to Nyon. Just Forclaz and Nufenen Passes to start the day, and then I will take the autoroute down the valley to Martigny, and around the lake to Nyon. Planned to be about 7 hours ride.
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